Lesvos: Skala Sykimineas

Lesvos January 6-7, 2016

Skala Sykmineas

Skala Sykmineas is at the north end of the island one hour from Moria.  Like the rest of Lesvos the landscape is dotted with olive trees and rocky hills looking over the ocean. Turkey is on the horizon.  It is a quaint town with lots of cafes in the port but is known lately for the number of refugees that arrive on its shores.

Just yesterday, while I was at Moria four boats landed in quick succession at Skala, but  the seas are clear.  There are many rumors as to why.  The waters are choppy making passage more dangerous, but that often does not stop the smugglers from putting people in their flimsy boats, in fact, they charge less during bad weather to further tempt those who have so little already and just want a better life.  Yesterday 21 people drowned trying to cross and were found on the Turkish beaches.  Some say the decreased boats today (only one this morning on the southern side of the coast) are due to the fallout and political pressure and increased Turkish Coast Guard surveillance.  Whatever the reason, today is a slow day and tomorrow promises rain and possibly thunderstorms.

When a boat arrives there are throngs of people to help them disembark and find their way to warmth and a change of clothes.  Sometimes there are more helpers than refugees and there have been complaints of how chaotic and inefficient it is when everyone gets in everyone else’s way.  Sometimes no one is around except a passerby, which happened to one of our midwives this week on a late night walk on her first full day on the island.  Finding help quickly everyone was brought ashore safely.

There are two organizations with “camps”  to meet the refugees at Skala – Lighthouse and Islamic Aid.  Depending on the number of boats arriving someone directs the boats to the shore closest to the camp that is ready for more arrivals.  They are within 100 yards of each other on a narrow strip of land with a steep rocky hillside behind.  It is one of the most beautiful places  I have ever visited.  The road in front is muddy and narrow as well yet somehow traffic seems to flow.  Both are set up to offer respite, food, tea, clothing, and healthcare if needed.  Depending on the time of day people remain at the camps until a bus comes to take them to their next stopping point – one of the camps set up for registration.

I was able to meet with Shea Citron, a midwife from Florida who joined Pilgrim and is here for a month helping women and children and stepping in with whatever thask needjs to be done.  She will be scheduled every other day due to the sheer amount of work involved on busy days and the need to rest.  Of course, if the boats aren’t arriving the work will be more in organizing and preparation but she also plans to visit the camps at Moria and Pipka and to help if needed there.  With one busy shift behind her she felt her skills and compassion were already put to good use.  I will be accompanying her on the night shift tomorrow, my last night in Lesvos before heading to Samos.  Of course I want to help, but given the likely conditions of the sea, I am hoping it is quiet and no one risks this short but dangerous journey.

Lesvos day 3
On my third day in Lesvos I started off in Mytilini and made my way back to Skala Sykmineas.
It was a stormy morning filled with meetings and making connections. The seas continue to be rough and as expected no boats landed yesterday.  The refugee population was 750 for the whole island and if anyone is able to travel to Athens will dwindle further.

No one seems to know if the lack of arrivals is due to continued monitoring on the Turkish side or the weather or both.  In the past weather has not been a major factor in the decision to cross or not, as smugglers charge much less ($500/person vs $1500/person on good days) and for those with little means it is their only chance to risk the journey.  But these seas were treacherous and I hope no one ventures out tonight.

My plan tonight is to work the night shift with Lighthouse. I expect it to be slow and may even get a full nights sleep. The most common time for arrivals is 5:30-8:30am but there are no set rules. Tomorrow is predicted to be calm and sunny and that may change the numbers.  I leave tomorrow afternoon for Samos via the ferry and will be able to assess the situation there over the weekend.

As I prepare to leave I am again overwhelmed with the beauty of Lesvos. Hillsides with walls that are now part of the earth itself and boulders that seemed to have been placed there as works of art.  I walk around listening to the crashing waves and feel the ancient energy – a history I try to imagine. I now know why  Lesvos is an  island of poetry as plain words themselves cannot describe the emotions you feel when you are here.